In the shadow of Los Angeles City College, the intersection of Heliotrope Drive and Melrose Avenue boasts a collegiate, counterculture vibe, complete with avid bicycle activists, a smoke shop, tattoo parlor and a splash of colorful, graffiti-style murals. Yet this little pocket of shops and restaurants, known as “Hel Mel,” also offers the more refined pleasures of gourmet gelato, local craft beers and designer lingerie. The junction of grit and polish makes Hel Mel one of the most vibrant, up-and-coming neighborhoods on the hipster map…